|Now for trick number 1. Remove the piece from the lathe, flip it end for end, and replace it in the centers. It only takes a minute and our next series of cuts can take place away from all the material at the head stock.|
|I was going to use the shorter tool rest but I have changed my mind and use the longer one as I flatten the top of the bowl, working from outside to center in a series of small cuts. The Oland tool is almost flat as I move it into the wood. Remove any pith that has been left in the piece and flatten the face, leaving about 1 1/2" to 2" in center as a tenon.|
|Once the top is flattened, it is time to remove the interior. The rule of thumb for drying wall thickness is 10% of the diameter. In other words about an inch for this 10" bowl. I like to leave a little more for design purposes in case I want to curve the wall in or out in the final turning. It may slow the drying time a little but it is usually longer than necessary before I get back to final turning anyway. I mark the wall thickness here with a pencil as the wood turns so you can see where I turn.|
|Working from just inside the line, I use the same cut as on the face as I work to the center of the bowl in short circular cuts propelled from the hip against which the tool rests. This is quick work. Occasionally make a quick pass along the bowl’s inner edge to refine the curve and work on down.|
|As you get near the bottom, check with a caliper or just your fingers to make sure the bowl is evenly thick all the way down and also through the bottom. An even thickness ensures better drying with less chance of cracks and splits. Leave the center tenon about 11/2" to 2" thick.|
If this is a help, please let me know how it turned out.
© 2015 copyright Darrell Feltmate, Around the Woods