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Work in Progress - Spruce Burl Form

Part 4 - Refining the outside with cutting and shear scraping

I apply the glue to the block, set it in place and use a clamp to hold it while the glue sets. I am using a quick setting (5 minute) epoxy. woodturning tip: clamping glue block
After about ten minutes the glue is setting and skimmed over where there is squeeze out. The clamp is removed and I begin to bag the piece. I like to give epoxy at least 8 hours to cure and 24 to 48 is even better. wood turning tip: glue times
Bagging the piece in a plastic should prevent any more cracking until I get a chance to turn once again. woodturning tip: bagging for drying
A few busy days later I got back at the lathe. The bag removed, I gave the glue block a "bench test" Take the piece in hand and smack the block against a work bench or similar. If it comes off you do not want it on the lathe turning at your face. Having passed the test I mounted the piece on the lathe and brought up the tail stock for extra support. wood turning project: remounted
As expected, the glue block was a bit off center but that was quickly corrected with a couple of passes of the Oland tool. The base looked a bit large so I took it in and corrected the curve of the neck. By "corrected " I simply mean that it now looks better to me. woodworking lathe technique: design thoughts
A few passes of the shear scrapers and the outside is ready for sanding. However, the surface of the burl is quite punky in places and sanding will leave a singularly uneven texture. wodturning project difficulties

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